Patagonia- The Ultimate Wild

The wind whipped across the barren grassland, sending sprays of milky blue water 50+ feet into the matching sky. Clouds scraped across the top of the mountains like fluffy white rocks being skipped on a lake. One of the most breathtaking scenes in one of the most remote and wild places on the planet. Patagonia is so much more than a cool outdoorsy gear store; it is a section of the earth that seems almost untouched and from a wilder time. Patagonia is a place where you feel as though the mountains are so close to your face, you can touch them; yet a place you feel so small that your passing through is barely noticed.

And it is so much more than just the famous park, Torres Del Paine! The Patagonia region, spanning southern Chile and Argentina, is renowned for its dramatic landscapes and diverse ecosystems. Geographically, it stretches from the Andes mountains in the west to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. This region is characterized by rugged mountains, expansive glaciers, arid steppes, and lush temperate rainforests.

Ecologically, Patagonia is home to a variety of unique flora and fauna. The western part of Patagonia features dense forests with species like the lenga and ñire trees, while the eastern side is dominated by the Patagonian desert and semi-arid steppe. You can see this difference in the pictures above and below.

Wildlife abounds, even after many years of overhunting and invasive species (like the roe deer and European hare). There are large herds of guanaco, a camelid similar to a llama, and many other interesting species. The quantity of animals we spotted were sheep, which serve as one of the main exports in the region. Whatever species live here though, whether human or animal, they must be tough and hardy to survive the climate.

In keeping with the toughness of the plants, animals, and humans of Patagonia, we wanted to travel in an authentic and immersive way. We find camping allows us to intimately experience areas as we are subject to the climate, terrain and organisms! In order to consolidate travel and lodging in one, we rented a camper van. We rented a camper van from WickedChile, who offered one way rentals from South to North, which was perfect for our itinerary.

We were blessed with never having a flat tire in our journey as we traversed the regions on steep mountain roads, and the roughest “highway” I’ve ever seen (Route 40). The roads were commonly paved in many sections but in some sections we encountered, it was the worst scratch of a road across the landscape we have ever encountered in our travels. (see the video below).

There were almost no people, electrical poles, or even villages as far as the eye could see. In fact, some spots were so rough and remote, the Argentinian government put solar powered emergency beacons every 5km along some sections of the highway. The van was a great choice though, as we were never too far from nature. We got to experience beautiful skies when we went outside to visit nature’s bathroom!

Patagonia supports wildlife such as guanacos, Andean condors, and the elusive puma. There are more pumas in Patagonia than anywhere else on earth (but they’re so elusive you wouldn’t know it). We encountered many animals along the way, and the diversity of habitats ensures that as you traverse Patagonia, you are sure to encounter a variety of wild animals. One of our favorite was the Culpeo foxes, and the goofy Rhea birds, which look like mini ostriches when running.

Rheas are large, flightless birds native to South America, and they inhabit various regions of the continent. In Patagonia, we saw the lesser rhea (Rhea pennata), also known as the Darwin’s rhea. They are smaller than their larger relatives, the greater rheas (Rhea americana), with an average height of about 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 meters). Their plumage is a mix of brown and gray, which helps them blend into their surroundings. They have long legs and necks, and their wings are small and not used for flight. Lesser rheas are social birds and often form groups. These groups can be quite large, especially during the breeding season. They are known for their strong legs, which help them run at high speeds to escape predators. They are well camouflaged until they started to run! We lovingly called them “mini-ostriches” and loved watching them take off across the Patagonian landscape.

In Patagonia, guanacos (Lama guanicoe) are a prominent and iconic species, thriving in the region’s rugged and arid landscapes. These wild relatives of the domesticated llama are well-adapted to the harsh Patagonian climate, with a thick, woolly coat that provides insulation against cold temperatures. Guanacos are herbivores, grazing on grasses and shrubs, and they live in social groups called herds that help them protect against predators. Their populations are generally stable, although they face threats from habitat loss and hunting. Guanacos are an important part of Patagonia’s ecosystem, contributing to the region’s rich biodiversity.

The culpeo fox (Lycalopex culpaeus), also known as the Andean fox, is a notable inhabitant of Patagonia’s diverse landscapes. Adapted to a range of environments from high-altitude mountains to arid plains, culpeo foxes are versatile omnivores, feeding on small mammals, birds, fruits, and insects…and whatever food people leave behind. They have a distinctive reddish coat with a bushy tail and are known for their adaptability and elusive nature. Their role in the ecosystem includes controlling rodent populations and dispersing seeds, contributing to the balance of their habitat. The culpeo fox we met in a trailhead parking lot was unusually friendly.

The Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest temperate ice fields in the world, is a key feature of Patagonia, feeding numerous glaciers that flow into both the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. One of the more recognizable features of the ice field is the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the world’s rare, growing glaciers. The “hikes” here are just raised wooden walkways, but that does mean that those with disabilities or trouble walking should be able to navigate this feature quite easily. It is good to know there are MILES of walkways around here, so we recommend planning a rest on one of the many benches with some food and Argentinian wine, and just listening and watching the glacier calve.

One thing to keep in mind on your trip to Patagonia: Give yourself lots of time! The distances are vast, the roads are rough, the weather is unpredictable, and the services will be few and far between. Especially if you are going off the beaten track and sticking to the western, mountainous side between Argentina and Chile; you are going to see that paving and services are available mainly by the large scale attractions like Perito Moreno, Mount Fitz Roy, and Torres Del Paine. In the map below, you can see our route was over 2 weeks long and we could have (of course) spent more days in each spot.

The highlights we would recommend in Patagonia are:

• Torres Del Paine National Park
• Cueva De Los Manos
• Mt Fitz Roy
• Patagonia National Park

There are a ton more places of course, and lots of little experiences in between (like when we stumbled upon a Chilean rodeo in the middle of nowhere). But if you shoot for those locations as main activities like we did, the rest of the fun will fill in the cracks!

Pack for all types of weather extremes. On our hikes, it could go from warm and sunny to cold and rainy. AND THE WIND! We had bandanas for our faces and sunglasses for our eyes– for both the sun and the wind. Have a strap for your hat and sunglasses, if possible. We are glad we went with van camping because we don’t think even our nice backpacking tent would have fared well with the strong winds of Patagonia.

As always, we hope this post inspires you to also get out there and have a grand adventure! Remember to refer back to our NowVertakking Radical Sabbatical as we continue to post updated parts of our adventures.