How to plant wildflowers

A bloom buffet right at your fingertips

Everybody loves flowers, from the most cold-hearted to the most cheery of us. Nothing brings brightness to your day like the pop of color experienced in gardens, along highways, and in planters along sidewalks. So why are so many unused places still devoid of a little flowery paradise? Because people do not know how to plant them! So here is a guide on what to do with a packet of wildflower seeds to help bring the color, nature and warmth we all so desperately want!

Step 1: Prepare your site

Step 2: Scatter wildflower seeds

Step 3: Compress seeds into soil

Step 4: Water

Step 5: Enjoy!

TL/DR (too long, didn’t read) ARTICLE: Disturb soil, scatter native wildflower seeds after first frost. Enjoy! πŸ™‚

Note: Please plant species that are native to your state, and at LEAST native to your continent. Planting non-native species will not be as useful to the local wildlife & it will be more work for you, as non-native plants have not developed in tandem with the climate & species in that area. If your mix does include some non-native species, ensure they are not invasive (a species that outcompetes native species) and that they will disappear from the wildflower meadow in time. Invasive plants have been known to completely decimate native plants and therefore eradicate native organisms that depend on them (ultimately, wiping out entire ecosystems). And at a minimum, non-native plants provide less energy input into the ecosystem than natives, and provide the equivalent to, as we like to put it, lawn gnomes. More for looks than functionality.

“Because life is fueled by the energy captured from the sun by plants, it will be the plants that we use in our gardens that determine what nature will be like 10, 20, and 50 years from now.” -Doug Tallamy

A small flower patch of native plants in a sea of brome grass

Step 1: Prepare Your Site For Seeding Wildflowers. Choose a site that receives a minimum of 6 hours of sun. Many flowers are early successional plants, which means they grow when trees fall down and sunlight is prevalent. This also means that they live fast and die hard, so if after a few years, if the grass or trees start to snuff them out, then you will need to redo this step. There are many methods of removing all existing growth and debris. Here is our experience with the following methods:

The underlying goal: Less grass/debris = more flowers!

The best time to execute this step is early spring, in order to kill any weeds that pop up after your treatment, and then plant your seeds in the fall. The less weed bank (collection of weed seeds) in your soil, the less headache you will have with unwanted or invasive species pushing out your new flowers.

In our experience, this is the most important step. The soil of your garden is like the foundation for a house. Prepare it well, and it will be able to support wanted growth.

Understand that there may still be “weeds” in your plot. Strive for progress, not perfection! Keep in mind the long-term plan is to establish a native ecosystem (including native “weeds”) which will naturally balance itself in time, and push out those “pioneer species” that thrive in degraded or poor-quality areas.

Take some before and after pictures of your wildflower patch from the same location(s). It is so delightful to see the progress over time!

A weed bank is not where they go to get loans. It’s the built-up seeds that will germinate when you expose soil, like this pigweed “forest”.

Step 2: Scatter Your Wildflower Seeds. We advise following the coverage rate and directions on the seed packaging. A good rule of [green] thumb though is to hand broadcast the seeds (give them a nice, underhand scattering). You can also mix your seeds with play-sand so that you can see where you are spreading them.

*IMPORTANT* Plants that are native to climates with average winter temperatures below freezing typically need to undergo cold stratification in order to grow. Cold stratification is the process of a seed’s outer coat gradually breaking down in order to germinate when temperatures rise again in the spring. This is one of the many beauties of native plants– they have evolved with their region’s climate and are therefore adapted to survive & florish with the average rainfall and temperatures. What does this mean for us? Less work! We just need to learn to work with nature and not against her so much πŸ™‚

How do I cold stratify seeds? Our favorite method: planting native perennial wildflower seeds directly into prepared site (or in pots) in the fall after the first frost. Then they can be tucked in by the snow like a cozy blanket–awh. Special note: if you want to plant native grasses (or native annual seeds) plant them in the spring after last frost.

How do I know if my seeds need cold stratification? Ideally, research the species of seed you have and follow those directions because there are always special cases. Find your Plant Hardiness Zone (Nebraska is mainly a zone 5), and if you live in Zones 1-8, with winters below freezing temperatures, native plants will need cold stratification.

Step 3: Compress Your Wildflower Seed Into The Soil. Immediately after scattering seeds, walk directly on top of the planting area, or use a seed roller. You can skip this step if you planted in the rain, as that natural process usually compresses the seed for you. The goal is to barely cover the seeds with soil (about 1/8″).

Why do native seeds barely need soil coverage but my annual vegetables need 1/2″ or more? It goes back to the natural cycle of native plant germination. Since native plants are not strictly cultivated, they must reproduce naturally meaning they disperse their seed by wind, animals, or excited humans pulling seeds off the dried flower head and throwing maniacally around πŸ˜€ Those seeds land on top of the ground and through natural elements, are barely set into the soil. These native seeds have evolved to need sun to break down the seed coat, so never* bury or cover wildflower seeds with soil!

*there are always exceptions, so do some reading to confirm. For example, lacy phacelia needs to be completely covered by soil but bee balm needs light coverage.

Step 4: Water Your Wildflower Planting. Once planted, water so that the soil is moist, not soaking wet. If possible, let Mother Nature water your seeds (plant right before rain/snow is forecasted). Watering the planted area is sometimes not attainable if it is out of reach of the garden hose, but if you choose plant species that are native to your area, they will be able to survive on the average rainfall of your ecosystem. For best results, water upon initial planting, and water when the ground thaws in spring until the seedlings are about 4-6″ tall.

Lemon Beebalm, Plains Coreopsis, Sand Coreopsis, Indian Blanket, Black-eyed Susan, and Mexican Hat. Remember to get a mix of species that will bloom at different times of the year and not all at once.

Step 5: Watch Growth & Blooms Appear. Seedlings will start to sprout in late spring or early summer. Sit back, grab a beverage, and enjoy your wildflowers! The bees & other pollinators will thank you as they feast all year long too! Take time to stop and enjoy, as you and others who visit will be able to appreciate all of the life that is brought in by the flowers you planted.

You can also leave the seed heads and dead plant matter to feed birds and provide cover in the winter too! The flowers will not be a perfectly blooming calendar-picture all year long. There may be periods with only one or two blooms, but remember that this isn’t ALL about a human’s enjoyment. Even flowers that are not blooming the first year may be saving up energy for the next. With a dynamic and biodiverse mix of species, you will not only be feeding butterflies with blooms, but native caterpillars will eat the leaves, native beetles will munch on petals, and spiders will nab the little flies. YAY!

You will have a veritable cornucopia of arthropods living in what was once a lifeless and forgotten area of your property.

It’s good to know as well that certain flower species may not persist without disturbance every few years, whether that be tillage, mowing, burning, or drought. Keep an eye on your land and watch how your flower mix will ebb and flow with time. If you do mow, set the blade at the highest setting to allow perennial plants to survive the chopping, and some insects that shelter in the stubble to survive.

Include grasses in your mix if you are going for long term results. Lots of native flowers like this Monarda fistulosa (beebalm) need some support to keep from flopping.

We would love to see your wildflower patches! Share with us over email or on Facebook/Instagram @NowVertakking