Atacama: A Symphony of Extremes

It was early morning, and the sun would soon be beating down relentlessly, its piercing stare never softened even from a passing cloud. But before it gained strength, since this place was high altitude, we were actually quite cold. At night, temperatures dropped to -2°C (28°F)– and when the sun was high, temperatures rose to 22°C (72°F). We climbed down the canyon rocks, feeling the temperature drop as the rocky walls rose up around us. Yet, even with very little life in this stone amphitheater fenced in by looming cacti, we saw reeds as we descended into the bowl. Then the most startling thing happened: In the middle of the driest place in the world, where not a single drop of rain has been recorded in over 300 years in some areas, a dragonfly flitted by! Then another, and another. A cool breeze brought in a melodic trickle of …..water! Sure enough, a stream was murmuring quietly through this canyon, its melody of life bouncing off the hard rocks surrounding it. But better than the song of the stream, as we approached the small trickle and dipped our hands in it, was that the water was WARM!

Yes, the chorus of chilliness and the solo of the sun would be the thematic elements of this most extreme environment: The Atacama Desert. Northern Chile.

In the heart of northern Chile, where the sky meets the earth in a seamless tapestry of azure and ochre, lies the Atacama Desert—an ancient and enigmatic realm of surreal landscapes. Here, the land is etched with the brushstrokes of time, from undulating sand dunes that shimmer like golden waves, to rugged, otherworldly rock formations that rise like the skeletal remains of forgotten giants. Its harshness is punctuated by soft golden tufts of grass, herds of vicuna grazing, and life of all kinds finding a way in even this most inhospitable place.

The Atacama, one of the driest places on Earth, is a stark yet mesmerizing canvas where the silence speaks volumes, and the clarity of the night sky unveils dancing stars in a symphony of light relatively unmarred by man. This desert, with its stark beauty and extraordinary contrasts, offers a profound glimpse into nature’s artistry. When you enter this tapestry, it usually starts in the dry town of Calama, Chile, where not a single drop of rain was recorded for over 300 years!

So how did we get to this remote place? Since our South America journey started in the southern-most tip (Fin del Mundo: Ushuaia, Argentina), we traveled northward from Puerto Montt, Chile to Santiago, Chile and finally to Calama, Chile (via Latam Airlines). Through most of South America, we were able to get around easily with Uber. That is NOT the case in Calama. We are glad we rented a car! The “base camp” to the Atacama desert is actually a little over a one hour drive south east of El Loa Airport in Calama to San Pedro de Atacama.

We stayed at Glamping Altos de Quitor in yurts. We really enjoyed them! It was novel, comfortable, and an easy drive into the town of San Pedro. The pool was refreshing, they had a small breakfast each morning (and would pack it for you if you had to leave early to beat the heat), and the starry skies were priceless!

San Pedro de Atacama is at the heart of the desert. Surrounding San Pedro is a landscape similar to Mars, in fact; NASA uses sections of the Atacama to test Mar’s rovers, as some spots are so harsh that not even bacteria can survive. We were amazed to find life out there, let alone a local herding their livestock. Where they came from and where they were going, we had no idea!

Our highlighted activities while in the Atacama (San Pedro) were:

• Visiting the quaint town of San Pedro
• Swimming at Laguna Cejar (Ojos del Salar were closed when we visited in March 2024).
• Stargazing (anywhere outside of town!)- we did not get a tour, but it would probably be worth it to purchase an Astrology or Astrophotography Tour. The Atacama Desert is home to some of the world’s most advanced observatories, like the Paranal Observatory, due to its clear skies and minimal light pollution
• Piedras Rojas
• Lagunas Miscanti and Miniques (there is an entrance fee, approximately 2,500 clp)
• Valle de la Luna
• Lagunas Escondidas

Enjoy just exploring!! Of course, bring lots of water!!! Sunscreen is obviously important, but with the intensity of the sun, it is best to invest in wicking clothes that cover your body, and a big hat 🙂 The only scrubby plants growing are near human habitation, and you wont see any (sane) person outside for very long when the sun is up. Solar radiation in this region is among the highest in the world. The UV index can be extremely high, often reaching levels considered very high to extreme. In practical terms, this means you can experience rapid sunburn if you’re not careful.

The changes in the terrain are some of the most drastic imaginable though: in the same day, you could start in a freezing cold geyser field at 15,000 feet high, and within a few hours be at an alpine salt lake filled with flamingoes. Then, you could end your day floating in a brine pond that is as salty as the Dead Sea; swimming can only be tolerated for 15 minutes without damaging your skin from the intense UV.

After the Atacama, we made our way north to the reknowned Salt Flats. The Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. They are some of the largest salt flats in the world, creating stunning, reflective landscapes. Remember to refer back to our NowVertakking Abroad Series as we continue to post updated parts of our adventures. As always, we hope this post inspires you to also get out there and have a grand adventure!